Stoic & Genuine

The Denver restaurant scene has always been impressively good.  Most of my favorite dining experiences have been in Denver, and it’s hard to fight the urge to go to the same favorites whenever we visit.  Still, Denver seems to have been stepping up its culinary game ever since we left, and there are a number of delicious-looking new places cropping up.  As such, we have been making ourselves branch out more often.  While it is almost painful to skip over classic favorites such as EDGE, Il Posto, Root Down, and Shanahan’s, we have for the most part been rewarded in these endeavors.

We keep wanting to check out Beatrice and Woodsley, but this popular joint was fully booked on Thursday when we got around to looking at reservations for Saturday night.  Perusing the various offerings on Open Table, I chose Stoic and Genuine, a seafood restaurant that opened in the newly renovated Union Station.  I was attracted by their offering of caviar and an extensive oyster list, but further examining the menu I discovered I would gladly sample virtually everything on it (which, being someone who doesn’t eat any red meat or pork, is saying something).

Saturday night was the night of a Rockie’s game, so we opted to take the light rail into Denver instead of slogging through traffic and circling aimlessly for parking.  It was a pleasant experience and made for excellent people watching.  Our train deposited us at Union Station, and it was a pleasant stroll through the warm Denver night to arrive at Stoic and Genuine.

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On the light rail to Stoic and Genuine.

So how do I say this nicely…Union Station used to be a little bit of a…dump.  The last time I was there was maybe 3-4 years ago, when other than some construction there wasn’t much happening.  Needless to say I was utterly shocked when we rounded a corner and the facade of Union Station came into view.  The place is now utterly gorgeous!  The main building soars majestically overhead, with several restaurants complete with outdoor dining areas dotting the walkway.  A pretty and fun series of jumping fountains graces the sidewalk, and kids were chasing each other around the jets of water laughing merrily.  People bustled about or simply lounged, taking in the surroundings.  Apparently, Union Station was now a happening place to be.  Well done, Denver!

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The new Union Station at night.

Stoic and Genuine was one of those restaurants with a patio seating area looking out at the bustling walks and jumping fountains.  We entered to find the kitchen area and raw bar ahead with a relatively intimate dining area to the left and a nautical-themed driftwood bar to the right.  Dark wood tables lined a wall with a blue couch and pleasant, soft, blue-tinged lighting.  The decor accents included old timey diving attire, metal chandeliers, and rusted mirrors that looked as though they could have been pulled out of the sea.  It was casual and yet elegant.

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Stoic and Genuine interior.

We were seated promptly and selected a Patz and Hall Chardonnay from their wine list.  I wanted to start with the caviar, which we ordered first and then continued to peruse the delectable menu.  I should at this point present my one criticism of Stoic and Genuine:  the service was unimpressive.  The caviar took forever to plate (what, did they have to go harvest it fresh from the sea?); I had to ask for a wine chiller for our bottle of Chardonnay (I mean, isn’t that Wine Service 101?); they couldn’t seem to get straight which oysters they had and which they were out of (I had to change my order 3 different times because they kept making mistakes); and empty plates were left to sit in front of us for far too long (we had to finally flag someone down to please clear them).  So that aspect was annoying.  The food though…

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Black River Oscietra caviar served with lemon crème frâiche.

The caviar, while it did take literally 30 minutes to serve, was beautifully prepared.  Unfortunately by the time it arrived we were borderline desperate with hunger, and the delicate morsels didn’t last very long.  A more polished me would have savored them with less haste.  I can comment, at least, that they were tasty.  I loved the twist on the crème frâiche – I think lemon just makes everything better – and admittedly I was scraping it off the plate with the mother-of-pearl spoon.  And I don’t apologize 🙂

We next sampled the Spanish Octopus appetizer.  I love octopus – raw, grilled, fancied up, it’s hard not to like.  This particular dish was grilled and flavored with molé, cilantro, and lime, and while not my favorite octopus dish ever, it was definitely in the top 5.  We moved on to salads next; I had the Panzanella, bursting with flavor from the heirloom tomatoes, sweet corn, and smoked Ricotta, while Brian selected the S&G House.  Both were artfully plated and delicious.

For his main course, Brian chose the Alaskan Halibut with English peas and black truffle crème fraiche.  They did a fantastic job with this dish.  The fish was golden and flakey, and paired beautifully with the black truffle and peas.

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Alaskan Halibut. Brian was actually jealous of me – note his two oysters on the side.

Brian’s dish was attractively plated and I was almost jealous.  Almost.  Until our server brought me my main course: a dozen oysters that I didn’t have to share with anyone!   While I will admit, I have seen more attractive presentations, these were some of the best oysters I have ever tasted.  They were fresh and sweet, and the champagne mignonette was perfectly balanced.

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Sometimes, you just gotta have a dozen oysters.

Brian, envious of my oysters (which I staunchly refused to share), ultimately ordered a few of his own.  We finished the meal by sharing an angel food cake dessert with fresh berries and basil meringues.  It was light and delicious, and the basil meringues were surprising and delightful.

I loved the ambiance of the restaurant space, and I thought the food was excellent.  All in all, it was a pleasant dining experience.  I would definitely recommend checking out Stoic & Genuine, with a few tips:

  1. Don’t arrive starving.  Maybe their service will improve, but in case it doesn’t, be prepared to be patient.  A glass of wine (or a bottle) definitely helps with this.
  2. The portions are very small (which is how we were able to sample so many things comfortably).  As such, most of the dishes at Stoic and Genuine are not very share-worthy.
  3. Get the oysters.  If you do nothing else…get the oysters!
  4. It is a popular restaurant, and reservations are a good idea.  However, there appeared to be space at the bar, so even without reservations a couple would probably not have a problem.